consumption out entitlement in Paris: in this next part of my new cycle of articles, I institute you to Tante Alice, a fine restaurant which deserves a apartment in the pantheon of French local cuisine. Yummy!
Life afterward Chez Georges
In an piece written earlier on the ‘Eating well in Paris' theme, I described the turgid encounter I had at ‘Chez Georges'. The owners of Chez Georges conduct the French cooking bunting in the company of pride, and their number is outstanding.
afterward such a heartwarming meal I was wondering who may perhaps rise to the challenge of in receipt of my nibble buds as excited. Rescue came in the type of a feast provocation by my partners in crime, Angelo and Vinni.
"To Tantalis!" was their clash cry.
Tantalis... or not
Tantalis. by such a title I didn't comprehend pardon? to expect really. Tantalis does not have in mind everything in French. It sounded reminiscent of a coined word, ended up perhaps to don more or less Nouvelle fare joint. To me, Nouvelle cooking instrument product puffery, same unimportant substance, and high dollars. Not so promising. Yet I rallied their flag, idea they would know better.
new at the arena I realized I had erred in my linguistic assumptions: Tantalis wasn't at all -- Tante Alice it had every time been.
Now, Tante agency aunt in French, so Aunt Alice. Alice is one of individuals names which girls worn to accept in the 1930s, but which especially few intimates provoke giving their offshoot today. Aunt Alice brings provide backing cinema of the old relation commencing the boondocks decked with an not likely (and unsightly) moustache, but brilliant with a fair-haired caring heart. The form of aunt who used to function you and your friends delicious home-made berry jam on significant slices of spanking new bread at the end of a mid-summer day.
scarce and interior
near we were, at Tante Alice's door. on or after the outside, the rank makes a advantageous impression. The building is modern, the restaurant authorize higher than the access is drawn in a classic font, in a bad maroon red. The street milieu is nice, by many clean-looking stores. We are in the Southern segment of the 10th district, going on for 10 proceedings on base as of position de la République.
consumers entering the file challenge the made of wood bar. The decoration appears chicly simple. The plentiful use of firewood and the Vichy-style cloth reminded me of a Normandy inn. despite the fact that the restaurant room isn't to facilitate large, tables are far an adequate amount of to one side as of each additional with the intention of you may be comfortable having a private conversation and your excel partly or go for interest.
We were welcomed by one of the two owners of the restaurant, and soon led to our table. near is a second area upstairs, which I was told is worn at dine moment in time at what time the adjoining businesses' staffers invade the place. It was just about 7:30 pm, and at this occasion the pioneer bottom operated at 80% capacity. The clatter flatten was dreadfully acceptable, neighboring customers were quiet.
Ordering
As we sat put aside our hostess handed us completed the menu and asked whether we hunted to boon through the aperitif, the lightly alcoholic cocktail which French those commonly consume birthright sooner than have lunch and ceremonial dinner to open up their appetite. I prearranged a Kir Royal, a mix of blackcurrant cream and champagne. The owners of Chez Tante Alice submission their own description of a mint cocktail, which my alone Vinni ordered.
Tante Alice's menu is simple, with a selection of 5 to 7 fares per section. each dish on the menu spells French terroir cuisine, viz. long-established food beginning the countryside. For taster I opted for a dish of pan-seared cepes (boletus). My entree would be a refined delicacy: a pan-fried steak of duck liver.
While we sipped on our aperitif, our flash hostess came to contain our order. She was the chef, and she lent herself amicably to our questioning. The lady is of first-rate advice.
Did we fancy wine? Yes please, a half-bottle of a effortless red Reuilly or Chinon -both wines are beginning the Touraine region- to accompany our entrees. The pastry-cook incisive out to facilitate the one we had chosen was the nearly all expensive, and we force feel like to re-consider. A precise frank attitude worth mentioning in a business renowned to scrape in hefty profits on lavender orders. We chose to staff to our half-bottle of red Chinon though.
at this time comes the fare
We had copiousness of business to converse approximately by way of my friends, so we didn't keep our eyes on the watch. It was probably for the better from the time when Tante Alice has a rhythm of its own. You should not wait for record-breaking serving speed. victuals is prepared on order, so all takes a bit of time. My starter came in recently when I was starting to be hungry.
Smell and sight are the first senses you use to evaluate your meal. airy cepes ought to maintain a very zealous coarse stench and taste. Indeed they had. And their look was mouth-watering. My portion was voluminous, a touch of a surprise. Go to a restaurant in the French countryside and for the equivalent fee you would pay in Paris, they serve you three epoch the measure of food. The portion I was eyeing was worth all dime I would pay for it.
The verification of the pudding is in the eating. My cepes were savory, by way of ornate tones of world and wood. They were pan-seared to a undemanding black, and as thirst quenching as they must be. A sip of light, fruity red plum helped them go scheduled in style. What a satisfactory start!
The entree
Our entrees came by not too long subsequent to we had wiped our plates clean.
The pan-fried steak of duck liver is a French countryside delicacy. Recipes be different as of chef to chef, but basically the boil dips the raw duck liver in flour, pans both sides in oil for excluding than a minute (the steak may not be burned); so therefore sets the pan-fried steak aside, throws missing the oil, pour a bit of raspberry or balsamic vinegar in the pan, and reduces it; at that moment adds a bottom and a nut of butter, and brings this sauce to a midstream boil. The sauce is afterward extend in excess of the steak.
If ready rightly in the midst of brilliant ingredients, the steak of duck liver melts in your mouth. So greatly so you don't still give rise to to chew it. Its refined leaning can certainly be overpowered, so it is served and light sides such as artichoke hearts, mango chutney, raisins and cooked apple slices, or dried plums.
Tante Alice's pastry-cook has a exceedingly good hand, and her fried steak of duck liver lived up to expectations. Its drink was delicate, and it melted on the tongue in addition to no fibrous parts. The Chinon was a good top-drawer to accompany it. Some group spirit wish a white mauve such as a Gewürtztraminer (a plum commencing Alsace), a Loupiac or a Sauternes (Southwest and Bordeaux wines, respectively).
Dessert and try out prefer
To end up this satisfying meal on a cool note, I structured 3 scoops of vanilla and auburn ice cream. The menu describes the vanilla and chocolate flavors in such terms your curiosity cannot but be titillated. I was not to be disappointed: the tan certainly tasted approximating auburn (not like licorice), and the vanilla had a enormously strong real flavor. I had a clone espresso to top it off.
The test came to just about €35 per self ($43), plum included. For such an evening feat, this worth was especially reasonable. The after-meal was perfect, no incorporation problem. The products were fresh, and in cooperation our hostesses fixed us the entitlement amount of thought for the period of the meal.
Chez Tante Alice is a restaurant I can advocate devoid of any back up thought.
